ASSISI

Assisi, the birthplace of St. Francis and St. Clare, was high on our list of towns to visit in Italy.  Being Catholic, we treated this as a “pilgrimage” in many ways.

We traveled from Rome to Assisi on a regional train.  Train travels are NOT a big deal in Italy, or Europe, for that matter.  Especially while traveling within Italy, most of time it is best to buy point-to-point tickets at the train station right before you have to get on the train at a time that suits you.  It was amazingly easy.  It is so rare for Americans to travel by train that it is intimidating to think of doing it initially.

We met a woman and her seven-year-old daughter sitting across from us on the train.  The little girl was talking with her mom and I caught the words, California and America.  So I assumed that she was talking about us and maybe wondering if we were from California.  Seems that Europeans think that all American are from California.  I found California on Google Map and showed her where we live in relation to California.  Then we started talking, me with my almost non-existent Italian and them with their almost non-existent English.  Before I knew it, the little girl brought out her English textbook and we spent the rest of our train ride going over the vocabulary, with her teaching me the Italian words and me teaching her the English equivalents.  Oh, I had such a blast!  Loved every single second of it!

As the train rolled into the Assisi station, we could see the town of Assisi sitting on the hillside in the distance.  I think that you can safely say it was love at first sight.  Rome was intense with overwhelming sensory stimulation. Assisi, on the other hand, is serene, especially after the day-trippers leave at the end of the day. We decided to stay two nights to give us enough time to see the major sites and have a little down time after Rome’s hustle and bustle.

Shopping: Little shops with their doors right on the street. Most memorable was a shop specializing in handmade olive-wood rosaries, Tau necklaces, nativity creches, and other items.  There was also a shop specializing in Umbrian Cashmere wool sweaters, shawls and scarves.  The hand of the knit fabric is soft and heavier than other cashmere I own –really lovely.  Lucia found a sun hat, also locally made.  The prices were all very affordable compared to Rome.

Activities on the first day were pretty much checking in to bed and breakfast lodging, then getting the lay of the town. We went up to the community center piazza outside the temple of Minerva, then up and down the street ducking into shops. Breezes and occasional rain showers made for — can you believe it? — slightly chilly weather. Then we took a short nap, checked our watches, checked dinner spots (Yikes! Only open from 7 to 9:30 PM!) and raced up the hill for dinner at Trattoria da Erminio, known for its open fire-roasted meats.  Even though it was almost closing time, they welcomed us into their restaurant and patiently served us, the only customers.  Ah, what wonderful food! We followed Rick Steves’ recommendation on the wine selection.  And, it did not disappoint. Even though they have been on the Michellin list several years in a row, the price is rather reasonable.

 

There is a perfect compact beauty about Assisi that you just have to experience. The craftsmanship in the ancient buildings and roads is breath-taking. The town is very clean (we don’t find litter anywhere), and is very easy to navigate on foot, though a surprising number of people do drive through the streets. There were even a couple of heavy construction cranes around the Temple of Minerva — talk about close tolerances!

On the second day (the full day we were there), we visited the Basilica of Saint Francis (upper and lower) and a few other churches in town. The construction of the Basilica began shortly after the death of St. Francis.  The basilica is richly decorated, seems to contradict the teachings of St. Francis it honors, “but it was built as an act of religious and civic pride to remember the hometown saint.”  2nd day lunch dropped us in at a little sandwich shop that specializes in the finest Italian cured meats and cheeses on flatbread that reminded me of Sibe flatbread.  The sandwiches were simply bread, cheese, meat, toasted lightly — That’s it!  But oh so good.

 

 

Just right before dinner, we hiked up to Bocca Maggiore, a castle at the top of the hill. Oh my heavens, the view! Look how the light plays off the clouds, hills  and town. Michael captured a panoramic photo that I share here. Carmen said she cannot remember a more beautiful place. As much as she likes Rome and Venice, Assisi takes the prize for beauty. I have to agree. Though fairly hot today, the breeze was always comforting and appreciated. What a lovely, lovely town. We saw a Coldwell Banker office in town.  Hmmmmmm…

Evening dinner at Pizzeria Il Duomo: Again, wonderful.  Their calzone was the best we have ever had, with super thin crust, unlike most calzone with doughy crusts.  Their pizzas have the thinnest thin crust, a kiss of char on the outer edge, and are super yummy.  And for dessert, treats from a little shop that specializes in baci (local pastry), gelato, and obviously Meringues, oh, meringues.  Never seen meringues that BIG!

On the day we left Assisi, our host informed us that the next guests were not going to be checking in until the evening and that we could stay till 5pm.  We took advantage of the offer and visited Church of San Damiano (Chiesa di San Damiano).  This is where St. Francis prayed in front of a wooden crucifix and heard it order him to rebuild the church.  This is also where St. Clare spent her days as the mother superior of the Poor Clares.  As St. Francis approached the end of his life, he came here to visit St. Clare.  She set him up in a simple reed hut in the olive grove, where he got the inspiration to write his poem “The Canticle of the Creatures.”

It was hard for us to leave this beautiful place.  But, we had to move on.  Before we leave the post, just a few words about the Airbnb house where we stayed.  The house was built in the 12th century, with three stories.  Every story has a bedroom and bathroom.  It’s got the old-world charm.  If you are ever in Assisi, definitely check this place out (XII Century Home in the heart of Assisi)!