Days 16-18: Napoli

Buongiorno! This last weekend, our program went to Napoli (Naples), and although we did not see much of the city itself, we had the opportunity to explore smaller towns and ruins in the area. It was a welcome change of pace and scenery, and I’m excited to share my experiences there with you!

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On Thursday, after an inspiring talk from former Italian Prime Minister Enrico Letta, the group hopped into a charter bus and departed for Pompeii, about 3 hours south of Rome. We took a tour with a very knowledgeable guide, and enjoyed ourselves despite the heat (the breezes from the coast every now and then were immensely helpful). What perhaps surprised me most about Pompeii was its sheer size and layout. I always expected it to be much smaller, much more desolate, but that was not the case at all. We were able to see theaters, houses, “fast-food” places, and the forum, with remains of temples to Roman gods. We also came upon some artifacts found in the forum – row upon row of jugs and jars, used in market business. When I looked at these, it somehow wasn’t as hard to picture a society there, living and going about their daily routines, much as we do.

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One of the main streets in Pompeii. If you look closely at the road, you can see indents, made by the wheels of carts which would frequent the area.
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The forum in Pompeii, with Vesuvius looming beyond.

Pompeii was not the only “ruin” we saw. The next day, we made our way to Paestum, once a Greek colony, then turned into a Roman territory. There, one is able to see some of the most well-preserved ancient Greek temples in the world, dating as far back as the 6th century BCE. These temples were really the highlight of both Pompeii and Paestum for me. In them, I could see how the Romans built upon existing Greek structures, rather than tearing them down. The main temple of Hera, for example, has two altars, one Greek and one Roman. It demonstrates just how much of culture and tradition the Roman Empire (and now Italy) owes to Greece.

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The temple of Athena in Paestum. It’s amazing to compare the rubble of commonplaces and homes to Paestum’s still-standing temples.
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My friends and I inside a temple of Hera! I loved seeing the temple from the inside, rather than observing it from a distance. Oh, and don’t ask about the pose.

While I very much enjoyed visiting Pompeii and Paestum, I would have to say that my favorite part of my “Napoli” trip was staying at the Agriturismo Seliano, just south of Naples. This villa is surrounded by fields of crops (and a stone’s throw from the bufala they use to make mozzarella), and is simply stunning. As soon as I arrived, I knew I would just have to take a walk through the grounds and capture as much of it on my camera as possible! There is an abundance of different flowers, fruits, and plants throughout the villa, as well as a pool, which provided much-needed relaxation for all of us. And it certainly didn’t hurt that there were a few dogs on the grounds, including a particularly friendly one, Argo.

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Roses in the garden of the Agriturismo Seliano
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By the pool at the villa. In the heat of midday, the cool water was just what we needed!

And the meals! Both nights, our stay included a dinner at the villa, with the rest of its visitors. Our instructor, before the start of the program, shared that he had been to Seliano before, and that this meal was one of the best he had ever experienced in Italy. Thankfully, our expectations were not disappointed. Looking back on it, it’s impossible to pick a favorite, because each dish was amazing – fresh, and lovingly prepared. Furthermore, I admit that I have never been a huge fan of mozzarella, but the mozzarella served with each meal (made that morning) was creamy and light and simply unforgettable. The service was on par with the food, as well. We have a few vegetarians and one vegan on the trip, and they remembered exactly which was which! And I cannot help but laugh at the memory of one of the servers gesticulating in mock frustration and impatience at my friend, who has a habit of eating quite slowly. With the food and conversation, the general feeling each day was one of comfort and homeliness, and one thing is for sure: our stay at the Agriturismo Seliano is going to be hard to beat.

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The space in Seliano where we ate our meals each evening.

While the scenery during our return to Rome was beautiful, I could not help but notice the many fires that were blazing in the countryside, accompanied by emails alerting us of fires near the city of Rome. Therefore, I ask that you pray for Italy and its citizens, that no one or property be severely damaged, and that the issue resolves itself quickly.

 

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A view of the coast on our return from Seliano

 

On our ride back, one of my friends commented that some of the hills we saw seemed familiar, almost like the hills of California. I had thought the exact same thing. It was then that I realized that, even so far away from the United States, I could feel so close to home. Slowly, I am growing closer to Rome, to Italy. Despite my early doubts that I could ever feel comfortable in Rome, I find myself being proven wrong, time and time again. I will certainly miss my time here, but for now, I’m going to try to make the most of the rest of my trip. I’ll be sharing more soon, so stay updated!

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